The desire to see far off places began in my childhood when I wondered what places found in an atlas were really like. The lines on the map or exotic place names in other continents conjured up curiosity and mystery. Although I didn’t go abroad until I was 19, I have since travelled widely by a variety of modes, either independently or with my wife, ranging from a three month backpacking trip around Europe to the more traditional two week holiday break.
Central to my travelling has been the draw of places away from the beaten track and the hub-hub of common, everyday life. At an early age I map-read and navigated our route during family touring holidays in the UK, invariably trying to find the quieter back roads and avoiding the main routes. The narrower the lanes, the more satisfying it was, and to find a single track lane with grass growing down the middle became the holy grail of route finding.
An extension of this quest has been the allure of islands and understanding how they function and at times even survive as communities, whether that has been the Isles of Scilly, Channel Islands, Outer Hebrides, Faroe Islands, the Azores, the Ionian Islands or Stewart Island.
Wherever it’s been feasible, we have regularly tried to stay in smaller or slightly ‘away from it all’ accommodation, so that it never quite feels like mass tourism. We have tried to retain an independent spirit and 'do our own thing'. Mass resorts or luxury style hotels have never felt especially attractive. There have been times though when I have come to appreciate the comforts of good facilities, perhaps to escape from bad weather, sample good food, or to simply enjoy spending time relaxing on a beach and switch off from working life. Escaping our damp and unhealthy accommodation in Yangshao for the Sheraton Hotel in Guilin was an extreme case that sticks long in our memory of China!
No matter what the basis of travelling, it provides the opportunity to take oneself out of our familiar everyday environment and embrace a different emotional state, whether it be a rush of happiness for a few seconds, such as witnessing that fleeting wildlife moment, or to one of heightened contentment from being able to spend precious time in a particular location or being exposed to new cultures.
This section seeks to express and capture these uplifting moments, while at the same time providing some inspiration and practical suggestions for the reader.
A fascination with the Arctic has been part of me since childhood. Trips to Norway and Greenland finally allowed me to cross the Arctic Circle and experience some of its wonders. Now climate change is rapidly changing both the polar environment and related planetary life support systems. Is it now appropriate to return and travel in the region? If Arctic tourism can be supported, how can this be undertaken in a benign and sustainable way?
Santo Antao provides some exceptional walking opportunities. Many walks focus on the steep valleys, but this day’s walk along part of the dramatic coastline was just as rewarding. Other ideas and tips are also provided.
Cape Verde (or Cabo Verde) remains largely under appreciated but its reliable, warm sunshine make it an attractive option, especially for winter sun seekers. Away from the beach and sun resorts, the islands offer a friendly welcome catering for a variety of interests and dramatic volcanic landscapes.
The Neolithic remains on Orkney Mainland are not only a designated UNESCO Heritage site, but also force the visitor to think more carefully about the complexity and sophistication of the culture and social organisation of the peoples of that time.
The Shetland and Orkney Islands offer a wealth of birdwatching opportunities from birds of prey, to sea birds, waders and migrants. With very significant breeding populations for a number of the species, the chance to get up close with many of them is a major draw.
The Shetland and Orkney Islands have much to offer the visitor despite their relatively remote location. Whether one’s interest is history, wildlife, arts and crafts, or just the general land- and seascapes, choosing which islands to visit can be a tricky choice.
A remarkable wildlife encounter occurred during a walk around the twin lakes of the Sete Cidades crater on Sao Miguel in the Azores
When we come face to face with wildlife in unexpected places or circumstances, our emotional responses can vary from one of fear, to wonderment, uncertainty, or even privilege. Bears, penguins, arctic foxes and whales have all provided moments that have stayed long and vividly in my mind.
The heavily lined-face man approached me again. As he got close, he suddenly pulled from under his thick sweater a gun! Initially I felt numbed rather than shock. Waving the pistol in his hand, he nervously motioned for me to walk on whilst he followed a couple of yards behind. This was not a moment to argue.
It was hard to pull ourselves away, so nice was it to feel the warmth of the January sun on the sheltered terrace at the small micro brewery, ‘Cerveceria Isla Verde’, whilst looking out across the fertile volcanic slopes dropping towards the ocean.
Why go to Greenland? This has been a frequent comment from people who probably don’t know me well, yet it was at the top of my travel list for many years.