Cape Verde: from dramatic volcanic peaks to stunning beaches
Despite achieving independence from Portugal in 1975, and lying approx. 500 km west of Senegal, Cape Verde (or Cabo Verde) still remains a relatively unknown destination to many people. Yet, its warm sunshine is more reliable than that of the popular Canary Islands to the north, making it an attractive option for those in search of some winter sun.
From the UK, the main entry points are the islands of Sal and Boavista, which have purposely been developed as sun and beach resorts on otherwise largely barren islands. It is only by making the effort to visit some of the other islands that you can truly experience the ‘real’ Cape Verde and the contrasts and variety that they offer. Here is a flavour of several of these islands:
São Vicente
Situated among the northern group of islands, São Vicente is the location of Cape Verde’s second largest city, Mindelo, home to approx. 90% of this island’s population. The port city lines the sweeping bay and continues to expand, extending into the valleys and hills that provide its backdrop. The now crumbling Fort overlooking the city, provides a reminder that this island was a cradle for the struggle for independence in the 1960s and ‘70s. The centre of town bustles especially around the different markets.
Harbour and city of Mindelo with Monte Verde in the centre background
Today Mindelo is very much the cultural capital of the archipelago. Noted for its musical heritage, it was home to the late singer, Cesária Évora, who very much put Cape Verde on the world map. The city has a number of fine colonial era buildings, the most impressive of which is the pink old presidential palace, which at the time of visiting hosted an exhibition of Cesária Évora and African art and carvings.
Away from the city the only relief from the barrenness of the island is through Ribeira Calhau (Calhau valley) which gave an impression of struggling against the odds to be greener. Here, there are sporadic simple, small windmills being used to draw up water from the wells. Creating small oases around these, few goats graze among the small trees and bushes, although the locals appeared to be existing on a very precarious basis. Away from here there was little obvious signs of vegetation as one’s gaze followed the valley side up to the higher crags and the dominating peak of Monte Verde.
Santo Antão
Just an hour’s ferry ride away from Mindelo, Santo Antão is the greenest of the islands and noted for its dramatic, steep sided ravines (or ribeiras) cut into the volcanic landscape. On the high ridges at around 1,000 m, not only is there significant cultivation, but a distinct forest of big pine trees reminiscent of Corsica. The plunging ravines and terraces bore similarities with Madeira, although even more dramatic perhaps.
Intensely cultivated crater floor of Cova de Paul
A ride across the top of the island provides a fantastic appreciation of this landscape. The cobbled road (made of basalt block like many of the roads on the islands) was a major engineering feat and took 10 pre-independence years to build and is only just wide enough for two vehicles to pass by with care. Once it was the only way to cross the island but it is now effectively replaced by the completion of a part-asphalt coastal road around the eastern side of the island.
The drive begins by passing among the abundant acacia trees on the lower slopes which the Portuguese planted to help bind the soil. As the road climbs the vegetation becomes lusher. Then suddenly we come to a viewpoint and look down into the Cova de Paul crater, leaving us quite stunned to see a patchwork of small fields under intense cultivation on the crater floor. Here, the volcanic soils are extremely fertile and with the help of irrigation, provide at least 2 harvests per year. Both here and among the terraces of the villages around the crater rim, a wide variety of crops are grown including corn, beans, potatoes, sweet potatoes, sugar cane, other vegetables, cassava, papaya, mango and apple trees, whilst various herbs appear to grow naturally and randomly. Additionally, materials from the trees and bushes are commonly used not only for firewood but also for roofing homes and buildings.
It is amazing how seemingly inaccessible some of the terraces are, whilst the views down into the ribeiras of Paul, Torre and Grande provide opportunities for dramatic hikes.
Santiago
Situated among the more southerly chain, Santiago is not only the largest island of the archipelago and location of the country’s capital, Praia, but also the most varied in character. Although possessing the second highest peak in the islands, Pico do Santo Antonio, it is without a single focal feature that Santo Antão or Fogo more clearly offer. The island is very dry in parts such as the less inhabited north east, but greener elsewhere. We were shown one valley where due to the climate crisis, the rains are no longer sufficiently reliable to grow the staples of corn and bean crops and so the area was becoming abandoned. Several times during our time in Cape Verde we heard that the rainy season (normally July - October) has become either unreliable or tends to come later in the autumn.
The hilly centre of the island is quite widely populated including notable towns like Assomada. To the north we passed through the densely vegetated National Park of Serra Malagueta, a protected area to support threatened and endemic species such as vervet monkeys and purple herons. This also provides the main opportunities for hiking on the island.
Bringing the catch ashore on Tarrafal beach
As we were travelling around on a Sunday, we were struck by families and friends milling around or returning from church, ahead of having a family lunch and day together. The beach at Tarrafal was popular and we were also able to watch colourful fishing boats coming ashore with their latest catch. Our visit coincided with a festival day and the town of São Domingos was alive with a party atmosphere with everybody out in the streets creating a chaotic but happy feel to go with the traffic jams!
In the short time available to us on this trip, we had to miss out on seeing the capital, Praia and the old city and world heritage site, Cidade Velha, where the first settlement was established in the islands during the fifteenth century. We were left feeling that there was much more to see on this island.
Fogo
This island is dominated by its volcano, Pico de Fogo, the highest peak in the archipelago at over 2800 m. The ubiquitous acacia trees characterise much of the lower slopes of the island, but increasing altitude brings lusher vegetation with the odd baobab tree, cashew trees and others. On the road to the crater we saw places that were intensely cultivated for vegetables and fruit trees in a way not entirely dissimilar to permaculture principles. Enabled by the use of irrigation, these growers certainly appeared to be getting the most out of the land.
Although the capital, São Filipe with its colonial heritage, is an attractive town, Chã das Caldeirias is the most interesting and visited part of the island and the site of recent eruptions in 1995 and 2014-15. The last occasion forced the inhabitants to evacuate the caldera floor, with many of the round traditional homes becoming covered by the lava flow. Those homes not completely buried are still partially visible to the visitor today.
Newly planted bushes in the ash fields below Pico de Fogo
Since the end of the eruption, the inhabitants have gradually returned to rebuild their homes and livelihoods in this very rugged environment beneath the ramparts of the caldera wall and the dominating Pico volcano cone. Yet, they seem to be succeeding. The volcanic ash provides opportunities to grow ground-hugging vines, bean bushes and other produce. Usually a hollow is scooped out in the ash and the young plant is planted into alternate layers of animal manure and ash. From what we could see, plants were clearly establishing themselves. Indeed, this is Cape Verde’s only wine producing area, and the good quality Fogo Chã wine is widely available across the archipelago. Wine tasting facilities are available in the caldera villages along with opportunities to buy the local coffee grown on the eastern slopes outside the caldera.
Sal
The island is largely dry and barren, although there are limited attempts at re-afforestation and some vegetation grows in gullys. The occasional sheep or goats wander, but not in numbers to suggest prosperous land use. Although it’s possible to visit old salt mines or paddle among reef sharks, the island is principally a sun and beach resort principally concentrated around Santa Maria at the southern tip with its fine and extensive and sandy beaches. Although the often strong breezes make it a paradise for wind sport enthusiasts such as kite-surfing, the Atlantic rollers do make it less attractive for casual swimming.
The expanse of Santa Maria beach
Boavista
This arid island also caters for similar visitors as Sal, but at the time of our visit a few years previously, it did not feel so busy. Enjoyment of the fine white sandy beaches and turquoise waters can still be tempered by a strong breeze. The international-style hotels at the back of Chaves beach are located a couple of kilometres away from the main town of Sal Rei. A lot of the interior is sandy or stony desert and generally there are fewer interesting places on this island, although hiring a quad bike provides some exhilarating fun while hopefully respecting the ecology. One hopes the wonderful beach of Santa Monica receives adequate protection from any significant future resort development.
N.B. The author has not visited the other three inhabited islands of Sao Nicolau, Maio and Brava.
Getting to and between the islands
TUI is currently the only airline that flies direct from the UK (particularly from Gatwick, Birmingham and Manchester) to either Sal or Boavista. Santiago also has an international airport, but from the UK it necessitates going via Lisbon, perhaps using the carrier, TAP. Reflecting the number of Cape Verdeans living in North America, the island’s own airline has direct flights to and from Boston and Washington DC. It also flies to other African destinations and Brazil.
The distance between some of the islands is quite large, making travelling between them more reliant on the inter-island flights undertaken by Binter. There is no airport on Santo Antão, so the regular ferry link with Sao Vicente is crucial. Attempts to create ferry routes between some of the other islands have been erratic, but some routes now seem more established even if they may only run a couple of times a week. A careful check on schedules is crucial as they can be subject to change.
Currency
Cape Verde Escudos can only be obtained within the country. Euros are the best currency to have and are widely accepted with change likely to be given in escudos.
