La Palma - a quest for a beach!
It was hard to pull ourselves away, so glorious was it to feel the warmth of the January sun while enjoying our tapas meal on the sheltered terrace of the small micro brewery, ‘Cerveceria Isla Verde’. We looked out across the fertile volcanic slopes dropping towards the ocean, on the western side of La Palma, the greenest of the Canary Islands. Our relaxing lunch of chick-pea croquettes and a selection of 'bacon wraps' filled with either fried banana, dates or chilli peppers, all washed down with a glass of their dark ‘Devil Dance’ beer, had been just the trick, but the lure of the beach finally drew us away!
At first the drive .....
Over lunch we decided to find the beach of Playa de la Veta. After passing through Tijarafe, we soon found the turning we were looking for. Although narrower than the main road, initially it was well paved. Twisting and turning down through the roughly defined terraces and banana ‘houses’, the paved road became more cracked before becoming a rough track for a short stretch, all the time dropping towards the sea that remained far below. The road continued to narrow further with 90 degree blind corners in places to add to the regulation hairpins. It still felt we had a long way to drop to the shoreline so a sense of mystery surrounded where exactly the road was going next. An element of faith crept in as the route certainly became a test of the car’s brakes as well as my driving skills. It felt as demanding as any roads I’ve ever taken! Fortunately there was no other traffic to deal with.
Eventually, after a particularly steep and twisting concrete section, we arrived at a flat parking area where we joined a dozen other vehicles. Even so, we realised we were still high above the sea and still none the wiser as to where the black sand beach was located!
La Veta solar lit tunnel
... then the walk
So leaving our car parked up beneath the vertical volcanic cliff, we set out down a steep, concrete path that soon afforded views southwards along the cliff-lined coast towards the hidden town of Puerto de Tazacorte. Turning the corner at the foot of this section, we were faced with a narrow tunnel cut through the volcanic rock. Considerately, a light switch was provided at the entrance to illuminate by solar power the passage through the 30 metre long tunnel. Upon re-emerging into the sunshine, the path turned once more and before us lay a longer stretch along a ledge cut into the cliff face, hemmed in by railings and mesh to afford some protection from going over the side. Although quite safe, we still stood seemingly high above the water with no beach in view, just the waves hitting a narrow, rocky foreshore far beneath us.
After the successful negotiation of the ledge, the well defined path descended more steeply, either consisting of steps made with the natural volcanic stone or with purpose made concrete at selected places, or simply comprising loose, unformed sections that required greater surety of footing.
La Veta beach and shacks
... and finally the view
Then when we steadied ourselves for a moment, we spotted a brown ‘cabin’ in the mid-distance with its own terracing and fencing around it. After a few more steps further down, we reached a point where we were able to look down on a small bay with apparent smooth black sand backed by a diverse array of shacks and cabins. These nestled among the trees and scrub beneath the bluffs above and situated at the edge of an outwash fan formed at the foot of a ravine descending from the slopes above. Some people were paddling or swimming, while a couple of others were snorkelling further out. Others were sitting up among the rocks at the back of the beach. In context, it appeared as a very small beach breaking the continuous sea cliff-lined stretch of coast stretching north from Peurto de Tazacorte. Indeed, we had read that this point had historically been a landing post for supplying the villages on the upper slopes, their only lifeline with the outside world. There still remained something of a jetty on the far side, no doubt now used for visiting dinghies and local inshore fishermen.
With the afternoon passing and still faced with a final steep descent to the beach, which would also extend the effort required to get back up again, we decided to rest and enjoy what remained of the afternoon sun and enjoy the scene looking down on the beach and the associated cluster of buildings. Apparently there used to be a little community here, partly shepherds but also safeguarders of the supply of goods inland. Presumably mules were used but what a trek up it must have been to do on a regular basis!
After half an hour, we felt we should make our way back up. Others had already called time on their sunbathing and embarked on the trek back up to the car park. Surprisingly it didn’t seem to take us so long going back, largely due to not having the same fearful sense of slipping down on the loose stones which we had whilst descending. Knowing what was to come, the drive back up to the main road did not seem so long either, reaching it just before the light faded.
Whilst there was some disappointment in not being able to spend some time at the beach, being without a detailed map meant we had not appreciated how much of an expedition it would prove to be!
Practicalities - Beaches on La Palma
Given the dramatic volcanic landscape and the opportunities for good hiking, the beaches of La Palma are not the first thing one is necessarily considering in going to this scenic green island, especially due to their volcanic black sand. However, if you’ve been doing some of the hard walking that the island offers, then the idea of a relaxing day at the beach might well appeal allowing the sea to massage your tired legs.
Puerto de Tazacorte town beach
Due to the nature of the terrain, La Palma has several other beaches that also require an effort to get to, such as at Puntagorda in the north west with its 300 steps. There are some though where access is easier. On the west side of the island, there are large ‘town beaches’ at Puerto de Tazacorte and the more newly developed resort of Puerto Naos, each backed by a promenade with restaurants, cafes and bars. Two kilometres south of Puerto Naos is La Playa de Charco Verde, a large expanse of easily accessible sand with a ‘kiosko’ for refreshments. More informal places in the south exist between the La Palma & Teneguia Princess Hotel complex (located below the village of Los Indias) and the tip of the island at Faro de Fuencaliente. In the north east there is Playa Nogales, near Puntallana, with steep access or Puerto Espíndola, near Los Sauces.
Do not be deterred!