The Ups and Downs of Walking in Santo Antão!

Note: With the mantra of “Stay at Home” currently being repeated daily in the battle against COVID-19 (coronavirus), we now feel fortunate to have had the opportunity earlier in the year to enjoy two weeks in Cape Verde. The chance to remember one of the highlights of that trip is captured in following account. Some further ideas and tips are included at the end.

The chance to experience the drama of the Cape Verdean landscape should not be missed with the rewards breathtaking. Fortunately, it is possible to undertake a number of memorable hikes in various parts of the islands, whether guided or doing one’s own thing.

The valleys and coast of Santo Antão are widely and understandably regarded as the jewel for walkers in this archipelago. On our visit to the island, we decided to tackle part of the coastal path that headed from Ponta do Sol along the northern coast linking the villages of Fontainhas, Corvo and Formiguinhas. Although the path continues further along the coast to Cruzinha da Garca before heading inland to finish at Chã de Igreja, we constrained ourselves to making for Formiguinhas in time for lunch and then returning in the reverse direction.

A little oasis amidst the volcanic ramparts

Setting out from a church on the edge of Ponta do Sol, the route initially ran above the town before following a partially cobbled road. Gradually gaining height, we soon saw our first views of the Atlantic waves crashing over the rocks and attacking the steep sea cliffs. Further on, we noticed the stained black rocks above where the seasonal waterfall plunges vertically off the upper ramparts, before providing the water and spray to create the micro conditions for a handful of palm trees and other bushes to grow. The water course descended down to a small black sand beach that marked the end of this narrow, steep ravine.

Our first view of Fontainhas

The track continued to bend and rise steadily yet maintaining the view of the ocean below. After nearly a steady hour’s walking, the track turned inland to reveal the village of Fontainhas and its picturesque setting perched above extensive terracing at the head of the ribeira (valley). For a stretch this became the dominant view until the track dropped sharply down into the village itself. This was as far as 4 x 4 and pick-up trucks could negotiate. The village itself is composed of two main parts, spread across the back wall of the ribeira beneath the higher cliffs. The setting and the bright colours of some of the houses gave a collective charm. From the concrete football square, we walked along the main street beneath the first cluster of houses before turning into the village centre and its stepped walkways between the buildings. Seeing a sign for a café, we descended the few steps to reach it. Small clusters of chairs were positioned in the warm morning sun, but the young guy ushered us inside into what seemed like his living room. The served chilled orange juice proved most welcome.

Reaching the col

We returned to the now narrower but still cobbled path that left the village, descending for a few hundred metres before starting the climb back up the valley side we had earlier looked across to. Looking down on the terraces, our eyes followed the rubber pipes and irrigation channels that watered them. Although it was evidently not a busy time in the cultivation year, we witnessed one man cutting the sugar cane. Gazing further towards the sea, another black sand beach showed no signs of any boats or berthing facilities, suggesting perhaps that the Atlantic waters were too much for small boats. Eventually we reached the col where we were suddenly hit by strong breezes, although these were far from cold. This point between two ribeiras crossed a very jagged ridge created by the weathering of a prominent vertical sill.  From here the path dropped sharply via a series of hairpins towards the hamlet of Corvo. Even though this did not look much as a collection of houses, the terracing along the visible length of the valley and its sides spectacularly dominated the scene.  We crossed a stream and passed between the houses, regaining height as we headed back towards the ocean.

Dropping down from the col towards Corvo

From here the path clung to the line of the sea cliffs with the waves crashing over the rocks below. The darkness of the volcanic cliffs in shadow contrasted dramatically with the vivid blues of the sky and the ocean with its turbulent white wash. After another half hour, having acquainted ourselves with some goats and a donkey, we began the descent into the village of Formiguinhas. The village centred itself on either side of the street that formed the last part of this descent until we arrived at a small square at the bottom. Here one could rest on the benches and look out across the ribeira mouth towards the next stretch of sea cliffs. The continuing coastal path could be seen etched into them above the restless ocean.

Arriving into Formiguinhas

The morning’s walk had taken three hours to reach here. We rewarded ourselves with what we thought would be a light lunch at the lower of two cafes with its view out to sea. However, the omelettes came with a large plate of rice plus a side dish of cassava and sweet potato. Along with a drink each, we couldn’t believe that they only charged us the equivalent of two pounds each! They certainly had a lot of custom, but we felt we should leave them a bit more.

The hamlet of Corvo and the heavily terraced ribeira

After re-applying our sun cream at the square, we began the walk back. Maybe it was a bit of post-lunch stiffness, but it seemed a longer and steeper drag leaving the village. We paused at various points to watch and listen to the Atlantic breakers crashing over the rocky ‘platforms’ below. Our ultimate destination of Ponta do Sol appeared in the far distance. Finally, we dropped back down into Corvo, which we agreed was certainly the lushest valley in the area. We were able to count at least 100 individual terraces climbing up the sides of this irrigated ribeira.

Locals returning to Corvo with supplies

Now though we were faced with the steepest part of the route for the climb back up to the col, made all the harder by being exposed to the full heat of the afternoon sun. Taking it bend by bend, we made steady progress before pausing roughly half way up to rest for five minutes. This became a longer rest as we saw and waited for school children and adults carrying parcels on their heads, making their descent seem all too easy. We realised that this was the only way that provisions could be brought in, and these children probably did this walk every day and thought little of it. For us though, it was a unique experience, and even if at times the effort was hard, the compensation of being in the midst of this dramatic land- and seascape made it all worthwhile. Despite a couple of other brief recuperation and rehydration stops, the top of the climb gradually drew near requiring one last push. When finally reaching the top, we couldn’t help wonder if it would have been easier to have continued along the coastal route to the end rather than retracing our steps.

Still a big effort needed to reach Ponta do Sol in the distance!

After a good rest, we made our way back into Fontainhas, where we stopped at another café run by an elderly couple. Revitalised, we summoned our energy to tackle the last steep but short gradient out of the village. Having completed this, the final stretch and gradual descent towards Ponta do Sol became easier, even though we began to feel every stone under our boots. In fact, the sections of compacted ash and gravel felt luxurious after the ‘cobbled’ paths that had paved the route for much of the day. Soon our finish neared as we joined a dusty track leading down into Costa do Sol. It may not have been the longest hike we’d ever done, but the legs had certainly had a good work-out. The final task now was to find a bar to refresh and reward ourselves for our efforts!

Other hiking opportunities

Santo Antão, especially in the north east part of the island has a number of other rewarding walks including some that descend the ribeiras while enjoying the dramatic views.

There are other opportunities to stretch the legs on some of the other islands.

The principal area for walking on Fogo is in and around the crater which is rather different, and not just in terms of witnessing how people make their livelihoods there. For instance, when trying to cross the ash fields on the flanks of the main volcano, one never has a firm footing due to the ash moving beneath one’s feet with every step taken, making it extra tiring.

On Santiago, the main walks are centred on the National Park of Serra Malagueta.

Although walks on São Vicente are publicised, they often seem to require walking along significant stretches of road e.g. up to the top of Monte Verde or around the bay from Calhau to Baia das Gatas. The headland around Calhau offers shorter possibilities.

Tips

Whatever walk(s) one chooses, one can either arrange to go with a guide and /or walking tour group, or seek to do-it-yourself. At a basic minimum, one should seek out a good guide book to acquaint oneself with what is likely to be involved including the distances, gradients and degree of difficulty. Most importantly, it’s vital to carry adequate drinking water with you.

Typical information board at the beginning of a walking route.

A number of the paths are generally easy to follow given the waymarking, signposts, and cobbled paths. With the provision of good information boards at the respective ends of the more designated walks, it would seem difficult to get lost. However, if one wanted to be a bit more adventurous or take a less frequented route without an accompanying guide, then having a decent map is highly advisable. For anybody with knee issues, the descents from higher altitudes, such as on Santo Antão, can be quite hard on the knees especially if the path is cobbled.

Crucially, it is essential to ensure transport is arranged. If not in an organised group, it is vital that your transport options are arranged for the start and end of the day, especially if one is finishing in a remote village where the alugueres (public mini buses) are unlikely to be running. There is nothing worse than getting to the end of a route after a hard day’s walking only to find that your anticipated return transport is absent.

However, with the right organisation, there is no reason why anybody cannot enjoy some highly memorable walking in these dramatic islands.